Roland Mouret’s Pre Fall 2016 look book, shot on model Kiki Willems in London’s antiques haven, Les Couillles du Chien, is owned and curated by Jerome Dodd, who’s talent for sourcing obscure objet has permeated the aesthetic of Roland Mouret’s retail identity. Mouret uses his pre collection as a means of introducing the people and places that inspire his work and private life while simultaneously making them a reality to the outside world, providing a creative and personal balance that is relevant in today’s luxury market. Mouret’s desire to share his inner sanctum offers a unique perspective into the world of Roland Mouret through the ever-evolving digital sphere, altogether creating a new form of decadence for his customer.
In the spirit of celebrating new decadence, Mouret’s Pre Fall 2016 collection references the subcultural style codes of the Northern Soul movement infused with the electricity of the British pop rock scene of the late 1960s and early 1970s. Wools in grey, black, and cherry red are combined with bonded organzas in aqua, orange and ecru to create a subtle wardrobe with bursts of energy. Mouret reflects on a generation in which Britain’s youth used sartorial style as a means of personal rebellion while inadvertently defining an era.
High waisted, wide-leg trousers in checked wool, bomber jackets with leather accents, and midi-length skirts in boucle mesh emulate the spirit of the Northern Soul; dancing to unknown soul artists from America during the glory days of Wigan Casino, The Twisted Wheel in Manchester, and Blackpool Mecca. While Pre-Fall 2016 sees silhouette evolve into a more relaxed fit, Mouret never loses sight of the reality of the female form. French lace details applied to dresses and skirts create sheerness while emphasising the shape of body.
Lily motifs, raffia patchwork on cropped jackets and mini dresses, along with mod cropped capes are reminiscent of London’s Swinging Sixties, while fit and flare trousers, jumpsuits, and suede booties give Mouret’s Pre Fall 2016 collection a ‘70s rock and roll edge; a time when attitude was just as important as appearance. Gold chevron lurex gowns paired with matching floor-grazing capes bring the eccentric drama of the ‘70s to Mouret’s collection.