Tuesday, 25 February 2020

Dolce & Gabbana closes a confusing day in Milan with a smoldering show

They almost didn’t have a Dolce & Gabbana show in Milan on Sunday, as the city rapidly moved to demi lock-down after the first deaths from coronavirus in Italy; one of them in Lombardy -- the region where this city is located.

Local police insisted that the Dolce & Gabbana start their show on time, instead of the customary half-an-hour late of most shows. Otherwise, the police warned the house, they would close down the venue.

So, with dozens of late arriving buyers and editors forced to watch from the upper galleries, the show kicked off inside the Dolce & Gabbana show space on the city center Viale Piave.

Like in their January menswear show, the duo focused on the craftsmanship and hand-made traditions of Italy. They had a half dozen artisans in their lobby – from goldsmiths, cobblers and seamstresses – to greet guests. Plus, their backdrop was a series of black-and-white clips of ancient traditional crafts – engravers, embroiderers or gilders.

Moreover, Domenico and Stefano used lots of different menswear fabrics from bankers’ light gray chalk-stripe, to glittering pinstripes and dashing houndstooth. Cutting all sorts of great Tomboy dandy suits, with double-breasted jackets and pants that ended well above the ankle.

Though it being Dolce & Gabbana, there was plenty of sizzle – with multiple versions of their signature naughty widow look. Semi-sheer negligee dresses in chiffons and silk satins; and a great checked shirt-dress with a naughty corset crowded out the runway. On the soundtrack, the late great Amy Winehouse yearned through Valerie and Our Day Will Come.

The gents even named the collection “Fatto a Mano” or hand-made in Italian, in an homage to a way of life that stills exist in Italy, and in few other places. Ironically, given the yearning for a simple life, there was a couture quality to many looks, in particular, the pearl-encrusted cabans and skirts. Albeit, worn with saucy laced booties on girls, who let their shirts fall right off one shoulder.

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