Thursday, 20 February 2020

Jil Sander: Poetry in a power plant

Ours is not a minimalist era. Instagram has long ago blunted the yearning for restraint and discretion. Yet, rather remarkably, the design duo of Lucie and Luke Meier have managed to make the house of Jil Sander, the minimalist fashion brand par excellence, seem – indeed be – really relevant again.

That much was abundantly clear after their poetic show staged in the latest revamped giant industrial space to be rediscovered in Milan by the fashion industry.

This collection’s flowing shapes, pristine fabrics and graceful silhouettes all combined in a moment of charm and refinement: a show where the entire cast of 54 marched around two lines of classic wooden office chairs before each took a seat.

“What’s important to us is movement. To display the clothes’ lightness and sensuality when they walked,” said Lucie in the backstage.

“Even winter wools can feel supple,” added husband Luke.

Everything, including a simple one-button blazer and a side-split chenille wool skirt, looked refreshed. Though the key element was a series of capes – from a cashmere mohair version over a ribbed column to a beautiful ecru Reverend Mother dress in taffeta, finished with a mantle.

“For us, it is not about minimalism, more about the approach. It has to be right in the zeitgeist. We really wanted to keep the models in the room, so people could spend more time with them. Besides, sitting down is part of life,” argued Lucie.

Adding to that sense of seeing the clothes differently, the backstage look board showing each passage also featured the back of each model. Practically unheard of in most backstages. “Why not? It’s important!” insisted Luke.

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