Sunday, 16 February 2020

Spring 2020 Couture by Schiaparelli

It is little more than six months since Daniel Roseberry joined the house of Schiaparelli, and he has certainly reset the dial on the storied brand whose creator was famed for her innovation, Surrealist whimsy, and embrace of the contemporary art world. “It was a crash course in all things,” Roseberry explained, amid fittings on the eve of his second haute couture presentation, “in Paris, in couture, in the inner workings of the atelier.”

For the spring couture collection that Roseberry described as “the sequel” to his first, he decided to focus on the “double fantasy” of the protean Elsa Schiaparelli herself. He began planning the collection by looking at images of Schiap at work in her studio dressed in her inventive but pragmatic daytime outfits. These he contrasted with “the incredible Surrealist parties that she used to throw—this idea of the woman who dresses for herself during the day but then there’s this duality at night where it becomes performative. I became obsessed with the contradictory personality, the introvert-extrovert idea,” he continued, “trying to embrace those two different extremes and remove all the middle, and do something that feels uniquely Schiap and personal.

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