Tuesday, 11 February 2020

Vera Wang: Poetry in Doris Duke’s former mansion

Fashion, at least in the hands of a designer with real vision, can have a poetic moment. And it did on Tuesday morning in Manhattan, in a refined yet racy show by Vera Wang, presented in a storied mansion on Fifth Avenue.

The show was staged inside the James B. Duke House, one of the last extant great mansions of Millionaires’ Row, for a select band of editors and aficionados. Built for one of the founders of American Tobacco and designed in homage to an hôtel particulier in Bordeaux, the building’s blend of projecting central bay and pediment, channeled rustication and Attic balustrade, made it the ideal setting for these clothes.

Not that there was anything remotely classic about this Fall/Winter collection by Wang, which was about reinventing evening clothes for daytime, or even the bedroom.

Most looks were semi-sheer – whether ruched camisoles, chiffon halter-neck dresses, or featherweight floral bodysuits cut as columns. Everything with side straps, train details or ruffled trim.

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