Temperley’s latest set of accounts have shown mounting losses and also a warning from the company’s auditor about its future viability. Although those losses only cover the 2018 year and we don't have anything more recent, they’re still a sign of just how tough the environment has been for the company and its 20-year-old brand in recent periods.
Since the period that the accounts cover has ended, the company has raised £1.9 million in funding, although in the recently-filed accounts, auditor RSM still warned that “material uncertainty exists that may cast significant doubt on the company’s ability to continue as a going concern”.
But it's unclear whether that warning is simply a legal obligation on the part of the auditor given the figures in the accounts, or actually a sign that the company really could go under. For instance, the Telegraph reported CEO Luca Donnini saying: “We are looking with confidence to approach a break-even point in 2020 and profitability in 2021, as we improve execution, product lines, supply chain and commercial results.”
That confidence comes as the label, which has a higher profile than many small fashion businesses due to celebrity clients such as the Duchess of Cambridge, Emma Watson and Keira Knightley, has been focusing on an operational transformation programme since 2016. This is intended to reposition it within the market, concentrate its wholesale customer base and focus it on operational improvements. This programme continued in 2018 and 2019 (under Luca Donnini who took over last May) with the consolidation of its bridal offering at its flagship in Mayfair. And late last year it opened a directly operated store in the Dubai Mall, replacing the underperforming franchise operation that had existed in the region for the previous five years.