Sunday, 1 March 2020

Valentino: Dark romanticism in a sharp change of gears

Just when everyone was beginning to grumble, albeit very quietly, that Pierpaolo Piccioli’s recent obsession with volume was starting to get predictable even a little old, along comes the designer with a stellar darkly romantic collection, and a subtle change of gears at Valentino.

Possibly no front row looked more glamorous today than that of Valentino, where scores of very well-heeled clients showed up in flowery, acid-hued, uber-glam finery. Posh femininity at its poshest. The show, however, was a cunning mixture of polished punk attitude blended with screen goddess grandeur.

“No categories. I don’t mean gender-bending, I mean people being independent individuals and wearing whatever they want. Like my opening look, which was a man’s coat very like the opening look in our menswear show but this time was worn by a woman,” explained Piccioli in a packed backstage at Valentino’s custom-made show space, just to the west of Napoleon’s Tomb.

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