Emilio Pucci has presented its new face. Deprived of a creative director since 2017, the Italian luxury brand had been searching for its identity for several seasons, relying on a very young in-house creative team while simultaneously exploring collaborations. In February, Pucci strengthened its studio with the arrival of a new head design with strong experience including at M Missoni, Max Mara, Chloé, and Nina Ricci, etc. and the results were swift.
During Milan Fashion Week, Pucci presented its spring/ summer 2021 collection which shows a great deal of balance and reconnects with the DNA of the brand, while playing with a subtle, modern rewrite of its design classics. Added to this was the injection of a fair dose of creativity through a capsule collection that was developed in parallel to the main collection by Japanese designer Tomotoka Koizumi, a co-winner of the LVMH prize this year.
The collection made a coherent and clear statement, something that will be much appreciated by buyers after three years of procrastination. The LVMH Group’s Florentine brand had entrusted the entirety of its collection to Christelle Kocher for winter, but it decided to revise its strategy for the coming season and change its design process. Pucci once again called on young creative talent to reinterpret its archives, although this time just for a capsule collection which was designed to sit in harmony with the brand’s main collection for the season.
For the coming summer season, Emilio Pucci has designed its wardrobe around a 1966 print, selected from the over 4,000 prints in its brand archives. The yellow, white, pink, and tangerine hues of the archive print were reflected in both the brand’s mainline collection as well as in the 11 sculptural designs with exaggerated curves and volume created by Tomotoka Koizumi using dozens of layers of organza applied in multiple layers.