Tuesday, 19 January 2021

Fendi unveils cocooning collection for our changing times

While the models stride briskly across a dance floor illuminated by multi-colored neon lights, a plaintive, far-off voice talks about light, elegance, colors, and darkness. “What is normal today?” whispers Silvia Fendi Venturini on the powerful techno soundtrack composed by Alessio Natalizia (a.k.a. Not Waving) for the Fall/Winter 2021-22 menswear show by Fendi, broadcast digitally on Saturday during the second day of the virtual Milan Fashion Week. 

Fendi Venturini, creative director of the luxury Roman label owned by LVMH, chose as her starting point the continued uncertainty caused by the Covid-19 pandemic, which has upended many of our habits in recent months. She decided to revisit the label's menswear wardrobe, evolving it and adapting it to our new world, which seems at once so strange and so normal.

Fendi Venturini’s take on the ‘new normal’ originated with multiple menswear classics which she turned into timeless items, by adopting a fresh perspective that incorporates changing lifestyles and the new needs of modern men. The collection is characterized by versatility, comfort, functionality, and simplicity. Its looks swing between innovation and normality, but they are also infused with a fresh zest of energy and imagination.

It is all about recherché, comfortable materials, from zipped tops in bouclé wool to reversible down-lined overcoats, and snugly enveloping pajama-shirts that morph into jackets, worn over broad-striped sweaters. A biker jacket, redesigned in oversize proportions, is made in a thick woolen material. The collar of some cable-knit sweaters extends into two long sections, tied up like a scarf around the neck

The cocooning feel is accentuated by the ubiquitous quilted fabrics, used for oversize coats with piped hems and edges, like old-fashioned dressing gowns, as well as for trousers, generously cut shorts, sports jackets, and even for pocket inserts. The collection also features a great deal of knitwear, notably the warm pajama-style trousers long enough to cover the shoes or the layette-look dungarees.

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