Sportswear featured prominently in Milan on Sunday. For next winter, a number of designers have given an elegant twist to sports apparel, cleverly blending its staples with urban looks ideal for day and evening wear. Like Dsquared2 with its alluring ice skaters, and Emilio Pucci with its vintage ski outfits, while sportswear label par excellence Fila, over a century old, presented a striking anniversary collection.
A quaintly retro caravan was the setting for Dsquared2’s presentation, the models throwing an impromptu party to a frenzied gypsy soundtrack. Scores of young women and men crisscrossed the cramped set dancing relentlessly to the music, flaunting flashy, dazzlingly flamboyant outfits, sparkling with glittering tiaras, crystal-encrusted hats, with charms and chains tinkling everywhere, and even gilets and Charleston-style dresses in silvery chain mail.
Designer duo Dean and Dan Caten blended with gusto glittering evening gowns, Canadian sportswear and outerwear, and urban outfits; all of them with an ironic nod to kitsch. Distressed jeans, flared trousers, lumberjack shirts, and sweatshirts were adorned with pearls and rhinestones. A textural tweed suit with a pleated or a bubbly skirt, either in leather or nylon, was matched with a cute little quilted jacked or a yellow waxed top with a generous collar, as well as a ribbed, figure-hugging turtleneck sweater.
Sporty details found their way into lace bodysuits and embroidered dresses. An ice-skater's lamé tunic was worn with laced boots, evoking the skating rink. Slit shearling skirts were sprinkled with sequins. Thick sweaters and cardigans only partially conceal elegant underwear, and amusing jewelry was ubiquitous. Next winter's Dsquared2 girls, sporting vertiginous high-heeled boots and wedges, will be dressed in ultra-short outfits completed by woolen or lace tights and thick socks.